In a city of drab subway stations, the Museum station on Line 1 is currently a welcome exception.
Museum station opened to the public on February 28, 1963 as a stop on the University subway line. Located south of the intersection of Queen’s Park and Charles Street West it served, as its name implies, the Royal Ontario Museum.
Museum station platform level on opening day, 1963 Photo: City of Toronto Archives
Fast Forward…
In April 2008, a major renovation by Diamond and Schmitt Architects and Jeviso Construction Corporation transformed the platform level to mirror exhibits in the Royal Ontario Museum.
This renovation replaced the original tile scheme. Supporting columns were redesigned to evoke various historical and cultural figures, including the Egyptian deity Osiris, Toltec warriors, Doric columns, Forbidden City columns, and Indigenous Northwest Coast house posts.
The walls were re-clad with mauve aluminum panels by Ontario Panelization. This incorporated painted 1/4″ fire-rated Lexan into the panels composing the large MUSEUM lettering on the walls with a historical hieroglyphic inscription from the ROM. The walls and ceiling colours were also updated to complement the new look, making the space feel more like a museum exhibit than a transit stop:
On an interesting footnote, the Museum subway station has been named among the ten most beautiful metro stations in the world by The Guardian newspaper.
In decades past, “the stockyards” at Keele Street and St. Clair Avenue West were just as the name implies: stock yards where cattle, sheep and pigs were slaughtered and sold for human consumption.
The property began as a 30-acre lot but eventually expanded to be nearly 200 acres. A fire in 1908 burnt down most of the timber structures; they were quickly replaced by concrete ones. As the stockyards expanded, more and more packing houses began popping up along St. Clair Avenue West. Famously, Maple Leaf Foods opened in the neighbourhood in 1927.
Given all the animals and meat-packaging companies, the area had a rather unpleasant smell, which only further reinforced Toronto’s “Hogtown” nickname (I’ve always wondered why Toronto is still sometimes referred to as Hogtown… now I know):
The Stockyards were called “Canada’s Greatest Livestock Market” Photo: BlogTO
In 1944, the Ontario government took ownership of the stockyards, renaming them the Ontario Public Stockyards and later the Ontario Stockyards. This site was one of the largest in all of North America:
The Canada Packers stockyards, located at the southwest corner of Keele Street and St. Clair Avenue, 1950. The Junction was home to a large manufacturing community for the first half of the 20th century. Photo: City of Toronto Archives
Redevelopment
In January 1994, the Ontario government closed the yards; demolitions were mostly complete by March. The horse exchange was demolished in December 1994. An administrative building, erected in 1904/05, was demolished in 1995. The last manager of the stockyards moved to the CNE in 1995.
The area was redeveloped and the current mall opened in March 2014. The Stock Yards Village mall is anchored by several major stores, including SportChek, Winners, and HomeSense. The mall formerly had a Target from March 2014 to April 2015. That space remained vacant from April 2015 to November 2017, when Nations Fresh Foods opened:
Corner of Keele Street and St. Clair Avenue WestCorner of Keele Street and St. Clair Avenue West
The architecture of the outdoor mall is rather odd: the small streets twist and wind around the shops, and the shops themselves are located on 3 different levels which can only be reached by going to the parking lots or the suspended pedestrian bridges. The site is part-pedestrian mall, part-vehicle throughway, and part-parking lot. Music blares from loudspeakers situated throughout the entire site, sidewalks are wide, and benches are scattered throughout the outdoor mall. Clearly, the architects were striving to achieve a “village feel” to the place:
Shot from one of the pedestrian walkways
Nations Fresh Foods
Nations Fresh Foods is an independently owned grocery store chain, founded in August 2012 in Woodbridge. According to the company, Nations are considered “a new, higher-end, banner store”. In total, the parent company owns 8 stores: 5 Nations Fresh Foods stores, 2 Oceans Fresh Foods Market stores, and 1 Grant’s Foodmart store, which is another affiliate chain. Two of the stores are located in Brampton, three in Mississauga, one in Vaughan, one in Hamilton, and one in Toronto.
Nations Fresh FoodsGoing up the escalator to Nations Fresh FoodsTornado-like sculpture outside Nations Fresh Foods
Nations Experience
A ride up the escalator will bring you to the Nations Experience, a vast, noisy and chaotic gaming spot/playground for kids:
Food Court
Nations Fresh Foods
And yes, there is actually a bona fide grocery store amidst the chaos:
Over the decades, the neighbourhood has almost completely transformed. Since the closing of the original stockyards the land has been redeveloped, mainly for big-box stores.
New townhouses down Weston Road, across from Stock Yards VillageNew townhomes lining Weston Road, opposite Stockyards Village
These days the Ontario Stockyards are found further north, in Cookstown.
The lone row home at 54 1/2 Saint Patrick Street dates back to Toronto’s slums in the late 19th century. Built somewhere between 1890 and 1893, this bay-and-gable relic from a bygone era once was one of six identical, structurally intertwined homes on what was then known as Dummer Street.
Time passed, the street names changed, and a particularly sharky land holdings company began buying up property throughout the neighbourhood in the middle of the 20th century. Eventually, the owners of the row houses caved, but not as a unit. Each half of the row houses’ wholes were torn down at an excruciatingly slow pace… until 54 1/2 remained the only one left.
This begs the question: how does half a building cleave away so cleanly only to leave the rest of it standing? Very carefully. In a miraculous feat performed with clumsy and powerful machinery, a demolition crew managed to tear down 54 1/2’s neighbour to the north with such precision as to not disturb any of the original facade on the building that was to remain. The white, exterior wall had once been a load-bearing wall hidden internally to divide the neighbours’ bedrooms and living rooms from each other. One slip with an excavator and the half-house would have come tumbling down.
By 1975, The Village by the Grange Housing Project opened just next to the Half House, giving it another odd appearance – a half of a house next to a full housing project. And that’s the way it has stayed for decades.
As of 2013, the house was reported to be privately owned and vacant. The current assessed value, according to city officials, is $648,000. As it begins to show signs of wear, its status as last bastion of the neighbourhood’s less pleasant days are beginning to show on its craggy, half-face. Then again, if any house has earned its character, it’s this one.
Passing through the busy area of Yonge and Dundas last week, I encountered a new claw machine arcade called Ohyo Spree at 340 Yonge Street.
Apparently Ohyo Spree has a twinned store in Empress Walk in North York called Ohyo Fun. These Asian claw machine arcades seem to be all the rage at the moment, and there’s another nearby one called Octo Zone at 247 Yonge Street (I covered that one briefly in this prior post).
If you’d like to see what BlogTO says about the new arcade, their review is here.
These arcade interiors are an explosion of colour with their vibrant neon lighting:
From the arcade’s website:
Looking for a unique and exciting experience in the Toronto GTA? Our arcade is not just for kids—it’s the perfect place for adults to unwind, relive your childhood, and compete for exclusive toys! With a variety of claw machines and fun challenges, it’s an ideal place for date nights, group outings, or just a casual hangout with friends.
Continuing on the “dead mall” theme (see my earlier post on the deserted Cumberland Terrace), we’ll take a little look at another urban mall that just didn’t make it: the Aura Concourse Shopping Mall (alternately, The Shops at Aura).
The mall is located under the magnificent Aura tower on the corner of Yonge Street and Gerrard Street East. Standing at 80 storeys high, Aura is Canada’s tallest residential condominium and is a remarkable structure:
One would think that such an impressive building would yield a world-class shopping mall at its base, but that is not the case. Although IKEA, Marshalls and a couple of other stores on the upper-platform levels are doing fine, it’s another story below ground.
Prior to my visit, I’d never been down to these shops under Aura; I’d heard a lot about them but had never witnessed them first hand. When I visited, it was the middle of a busy Saturday afternoon on Yonge Street – you’d think the mall would be hopping, but…. not so much.
Let’s Take a Look…
Outside, on Yonge Street. Doesn’t look so bad from here…One of the doors leading to the Concourse Shopping MallAnd… down we go
Arrival
Prior to the below-ground mall opening, there were promises from the developers of extending the PATH up to College Park along with a new premier shopping mall and experience. None of that happened. Apparently, in the pre-planning days, the mall merchants were presented with an inflated picture, by the planning commission, of how active and successful the mall would become. Of course this is not the reality and I’ve read that the merchants are now suing the developers for false presentation.
The Food Court
BlogTO has described The Shops at Aura as “Toronto’s Worst Mall”. This is largely in reaction to the half-vacant retail space, limited offerings at the food court, and atmosphere (at present, only 3 of the 12 fast food units are occupied):
The Only Sign of Life…
“Banana Games” in store #39. This appeared to be the only place in the mall where there was some sign of life.
Get Me Out of Here!
BlogTO describes my feelings to a T while I was in this mall: “the whole place feels like an anxiety-inducing maze in which the more turns you take, the further you get from an exit”. In the half-hour or so I walked around the mall I became increasingly depressed. This gave way to a feeling of claustrophobia, like I had to get out of the place; I felt very trapped down there:
The elevators leading to College Park… maybe I can escape this way and get out of here!An attempt at a hip mall aestheticAnother attempt at a hip mall aesthetic
I’m the last person who should be making fun of other people’s web design, but – COME ON Aura!! – their website is pure embarrassment! It looks like something a 4th grade html class might have come up with on a bad day. The site is ugly as sin, full of useless information, and most links take the viewer to the dreaded “404 Not Found” page.
Wrapping Up
So much is wrong with this mall, I don’t know where to start. There’s absolutely no street level indication that these shops exist, and without a PATH connection, people have no reason to make a detour into the Shops at Aura. There’s just not much demand these days for 30 variety shops selling cheap phone cases and snacks.
The sun was actually shining for more than three minutes last weekend, so I set out for another photowalk in the city. It had been a few years since I’d walked along Richmond Street East, so I thought I’d give that street a try with my trusty camera in tow.
Richmond Street East runs from Yonge Street to just east of Parliament Street, where it crosses the Don River and becomes known as Eastern Avenue. As you walk along Richmond Street East, you can tell its had a long history of hard labour and warehouses. In the 20th century, the area saw the rise of large-scale warehouses, factories, and office buildings, many of which replaced earlier low-rise structures.
These days Richmond Street East is definitely – and literally – on the rise: there are condo projects everywhere you look. The street is a vibrant part of Toronto’s downtown core, with a mix of commercial, residential, and entertainment spaces.
Walking from the start of the street at Yonge, and finishing at Parliament, here’s a bit of what I encountered:
The Confederation Life Building, a seven-floor Romanesque Revival office building, is a historic structure in Toronto. Completed in 1892, it was designated a historic property by the City of Toronto under the Ontario Heritage Act on November 26, 1975.Condos everywhere! Looking upwards from the corner of Richmond Street East and Yonge Street.This is currently a fully tenanted office building owned by the City of Toronto. In future it may be required for the Toronto Parking Authority.Toronto EMS Station #40, located at 58 Richmond Street EastThis is a housing co-op located at 60 Richmond Street East. It was designed by Teeple Architects and completed in March 2010. This 11-story, 85-unit mixed use building is among the first new housing co-ops to be built in Toronto in recent years. It won the Ontario Association of Architects Design Excellence Award (2010) and the Canadian Architect Award of Excellence (2007).Another Wild Wing location meets a sad end. Located at 107 Church Street, northeast corner of Richmond Street East and Church Street.Dwarfed and surrounded by highrise condos, McVeigh’s Irish Pub looks very out of place. The pub was founded in 1962.The Canadian Venture Building, 82 Richmond Street East. This company provides outfitted office spaces for daily, weekly, monthly or long-term occupancy.Mural in Green P parking lot #219, at 99 Richmond Street EastLots of colour on the Tangerine bikes, 99 Richmond Street EastThe George Street Diner, 129 George Street, northeast corner of George Street and Richmond Street East. Comfort food at a classic diner.At 121 George Street, Alterra’s Celeste Condominiums are currently under construction. That company recently collaborated with J. Hutton, a Toronto-based multimedia artist and musician, who has brought the construction hoarding to life. Inspired by vintage cinematography and live music, his mural “Ballet & Granite”, invites the viewer to appreciate the beauty of movement, the skill of the performers, and the ephemeral nature of artistic expression. It celebrates the universal language of dance and encourages viewers to reflect on the fleeting moments that make up the tapestry of life and art.354 Richmond Street East is the former home of the Downtown Ford Service Centre. It looks like it’s now slated for condo conversion.384 Richmond Street East. The City of Toronto has passed a by-law designating this building as being of cultural heritage value or interest. This is the site of a future, massive condo development. The upcoming project will retain facades from the buildings at 263-265 Queen Street East, 90 Ontario Street, 410 Richmond Street, and 384 Richmond Street. All of these buildings are listed on the City of Toronto’s Heritage Registry.The Turco-Persian Rug Co. at 354 Richmond Street East looks quite out of place amongst all the upcoming condos in the area.These painted curbs are a nice diversion from the somewhat dreary neighbourhood. The painted curbs, seen in several areas of downtown Toronto, are an initiative of the City of Toronto’s StreetARToronto program. The program aims to make streets more vibrant, animate the paths, and showcase the work of diverse Toronto Artists.The end of Richmond Street East. Beyond this Parliament Street intersection, the one-way Richmond Street East passes over the Don River and becomes Eastern Avenue.
OK, I cheated a little on this post. I just wasn’t up to shooting the Good Friday Procession in today’s rain, so I’ve brought forward my shots of the event from a few year’s ago.
For those unfamiliar, the Good Friday Procession is a long standing tradition taking place every Good Friday in Toronto. The mile-long procession is a three-hour event reenacting the fourteen stations of the cross, symbolizing what Christians believe to be the path Jesus took before he was crucified.
The Procession got its start in 1962. These days, thousands turn out for the Good Friday procession as it winds its way through the streets of Toronto’s Little Italy. The sombre event is organized and performed primarily by the parish of St. Francis of Assisi Church at the corner of Mansfield Avenue and Grace Street.
The Good Friday Procession Route
Getting ready for the procession outside the St. Francis of Assisi Church
Last weekend, while in the Bay-Bloor area, I suddenly had an idea to check on the state of the Cumberland Terrace mall. I knew it had fallen from grace lately, but I just wanted to see how far down it had gone – way down, as I found out.
For those not familiar, Cumberland Terrance is a two-story mall running from Bay Street to Yonge Street – a considerable distance. The lower level host(ed) a huge food court, and the street level contains shops and services (or what’s left of them…).
It was mid-day Saturday – peak time for people to be out and about, I should think. As I walked through the lower level food court area, it gave off a creepy vibe: there was no one around, other than a homeless person or two, and everything was shuttered. What little sound there was bounced off the barren walls and floors. I went up to the street level portion of the mall to see if it was in a similar state; it had fared a little better as it didn’t look quite as deserted as the lower level.
The Nicest Way From Yonge to Bay...
“The nicest way from Yonge to Bay” was Cumberland Terrace’s slogan when it opened on October 14, 1974:
Described in an ad as “three glass-enclosed levels of intriguing shops and restaurants,” it utilized fashionable hues of red and orange brick and flooring to enhance its landscaped interior. Initial tenants included a mix of chains (Black’s, Classic Book Shops, Dack’s Shoes, LCBO), and independent retailers with odd names like “Mr. Eat ’Em”.
Highlights of the opening on day one included a steam calliope playing at the northwest corner of Yonge and Bloor, and a display of classic cars sponsored by a cigarette maker. Within a month, DeBoer’s opened a two-floor furniture store. The mall’s location above a busy subway junction and across the street from a new parking lot seemed to bode well for its future.
Decline
The mall slowly decayed over the following decades, as its higher-end retailers moved elsewhere and its upper levels emptied. As the owners failed to upgrade the premises, Cumberland Terrace became an unofficial monument to 1970s shopping design. Despite providing a home for independent businesses, it was increasingly viewed as a blight on the increasingly aspirational neighbourhood streetscape. **
In Toronto, Cumberland Terrance is one of the last barely-altered examples of 1970s retail architecture. It never did bounce back after COVID wrecked havoc on the world; it’s a pity the mall has come to such a sad state.
Currently…
Like many, I remember how this mall was the place to shop and eat back in the day. Fast forwarding to today, here’s how the lower level looks:
The Future of Cumberland Terrace?
Apparently there have been many different development proposals over the years. The latest one can be found here.
Development proposal by KingSett Capital
We will just have to wait and see what becomes of the space.
The McMurtry Gardens of Justice on University Avenue is a series of sculptures and fountains sitting among Osgoode Hall, the Law Society of Ontario, and the Superior Court of Justice. Each item in the gallery is designed to represent one of the fundamental legal rights that belong to all Canadians.
The McMurtry Gardens of Justice were created to recognize the Honourable R. Roy McMurtry, who served Ontario for decades as a public servant, elected official, and diplomat. McMurtry was a Member of Provincial Parliament from 1975 to 1985, spending part of that time as the Attorney General of Ontario. He was appointed to the Superior Court of Ontario in 1991 as the Associate Chief Justice, and by 1996 he became the Chief Justice of Ontario at the head of the Court of Appeal. He remained there until he retired in 2007, which was the same year the Gardens opened.
The Pillars of Justice
This statue is a prominent landmark in downtown Toronto, standing in front of the courthouse containing the Superior Court of Justice. When it was unveiled in 2007, The Pillars of Justice was the first and only statue in the McMurtry Gardens of Justice.
The Pillars of Justice was sculpted by Edwina Sandys in 2007. She was first inspired to be an artist when she saw her grandfather, Sir Winston Churchill, painting. Over the last 35 years, the United Nations has commissioned five of her sculptures for their centres in Geneva, Vienna, Rio de Janeiro, Dublin, and New York. Her work is famous for responding to political and social issues, and this piece is no different.
Note the missing twelfth juror (centre)Note the missing twelfth juror
This sculpture depicts a jury of eleven people standing under a roof that represents a courthouse. Juries are usually made up of twelve people, depending on the type of case. Looking at The Pillars of Justice, you will notice an empty space where the twelfth juror would be. This empty space invites the viewer to imagine they are the twelfth juror.
The McMurtry Fountains
The McMurtry Fountains were designed by landscape architect Michael Hough and installed in 1964. They were restored in 2010. The fountains act as symbols of balance and justice, themes that run throughout the Gardens. They form a significant cultural presence in the City of Toronto and continue to symbolize the importance that Canadians place on the values of our justice system and human rights:
Freedom of Expression
Freedom of Expression is a bronze and stainless steel sculpture created by Marlene Hilton Moore in 2012. Hilton Moore is a renowned artist based in Hillsdale, Ontario. She has created public art and hosted art exhibitions in Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick. She is also responsible for the Freedom of Religion statue that faces this one. These two pieces, along with Equal Before the Law, were added to the Gardens in 2012.
The statue depicts a female figure delivering a speech with her arms open wide, holding a book in one hand. The figure stands on a black-brown base of granite, determined to communicate her message. Both of Hilton Moore’s pieces use bronze, which is usually associated with classical sculpture, and stainless steel, which we see in contemporary art and architecture.
Freedom of Religion
Freedom of Religion was created by Marlene Hilton Moore in 2012, who also made the Freedom of Expression statue across from it. Both figures are made of bronze. Like Freedom of Expression, this piece stands on a base of black-brown granite.
This sculpture depicts a male figure proudly holding up a globe. The globe is covered with eleven symbols associated with the world’s religions and faith groups. The individual symbols are beautiful images in their own right, and together they represent and individual’s freedom to practice whatever religion they choose:
Frederick G. Gans, Q.C. Memorial
This piece, created by local Canadian artist Maryon Kantaroff in 1980, is a memorial to lawyer Frederick G. Gans. Gans was killed in 1978 by a former client’s husband in the hallway of the courthouse that used be at 145 Queen Street West (now the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts). Although installed in 1980 and not formally a part of the Gardens, the sculpture is consistent with the Gardens’ themes in style and values:
Equal Before The Law
By Eldon Garnet, 2011. The lion and the lamb are represented as classic figures in Western thought. The lamb often signifies purity, meekness, and vulnerability, while the lion is the ‘king of beasts,’ powerful and imposing. The lamb and lion’s physical differences are amplified by their symbolic meanings.
Both of these animals are life-sized and constructed out of bronze. This sculpture connects to the other pieces of art in the Gardens by combining bronze and stainless steel, which is used in the scale:
The tower is twisted to a 60-degree angle, which runs parallel to the top of the scales. The ends of the platform are cut at 30-degree angles in relation to the support tower. Everything is calculated to be in perfect proportion, always balanced but turned or angled. The final effect is a scale that gets its balance from a good deal of complexity and careful planning.
The text on the scale is taken directly from section 15(1) of the Charter. It reads: “Every individual is equal before and under the law and has the right to the equal protection and equal benefit of the law without discrimination.” The Charter continues, “and, in particular, without discrimination based on race, national or ethnic origin, colour, religion, sex, age, or mental and physical disability.”
Scales of Justice Bike Rack
In April 2019, the Toronto Lawyers Assocation (TLA) dedicated a new Scales of Justice bike rack at the Court House, 361 University Avenue. The bike rack/sculpture is composed of a series of scales of justice, engraved with legal principles, as suggested by the clerks of the Court of Appeal. The work was produced with the assistance of at-risk youth:
Yes, it needed To go. I lived nearby and would pass this hospital many times over the years. Looking forward…